Design guide · Kilkenny County Council
County Kilkenny Rural Design Guide
The council's guidance on siting and designing a house in the countryside.
Kilkenny County Council · 95 pages
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- photos courtesy of Berenice Maher and Stan McWilliams
- . orientation & passive solar gain Choosing Your Site – Conficting Assets (see section . site selection) ■ Avoid sites with best views facing north; ■ Avoid sites where the optimum area for positioning the house has extensive overshadowing due to mature trees (As a rule mature trees should be retained) At frst glance Site A appears to be a very good site. It has several stands of mature broadleaf trees and excellent views. It slopes gently from the southern end of the site to the northern end with a much steeper incline along the northern side of the site. The biggest drawback with the site is that the good views are to the north and the mature trees are on the southern and western side of the site. The north façade is where a designer is likely to locate large windows to capture good views. Most rooms on this side cannot beneft from solar gain since this façade gets no sun and the potential for passive solar gain on the south and the western facades is greatly restricted due to the shadows cast by the trees. If external garden/patio spaces are positioned to take advantage of the good north facing views they will be in shadow most of the time and unlikely to be warm enough for sitting out. Site A Excellent views to the north
- Example of a well chosen site Site B Good views to the south and west■ Best views to the south and west ■ Fine stands of mature broadleaf trees to the north of the site ■ Enough space on the gently sloping part of the site to position the house so that the south, east and west facades can beneft from solar gain It is not always possible to fnd a site that has absolutely all the optimum assets that one might like to have. It is wise to seek professional guidance from your designer BEFORE buying your site to ensure that there are no hidden faws in the site orientation and/or contours that might make their job excessively diffcult. Do not buy sites that are subject to planning, also if you are considering buying a site that has an outline permission, check the fne print of any conditions that may have been attached to it. Seek professional advice from the designer you have identifed as to the implications of any conditions to ensure that they do not impose restrictions that limit the potential of your site/brief, and ultimately your house.
- deep plan house versus narrow plan house Resolving confict between site context /contours and optimum orientation for passive solar gain After taking advice from a creative designer it may be that a decision is taken to proceed with purchasing a site that has a less than optimum orientation in terms of achieving maximum passive solar gain because the designer feels that he/she can either solve the problem for you with a creative design solution OR that they can achieve a reasonable balance. As a minimum the objective should be to position the house on the site and arrange the rooms within the house in such a way that daytime rooms such as kitchen/ living/dining rooms and studys (especially if you want to work from home) get direct sunlight morning, noon and evening. Open plan kitchen, dining and family rooms beneft greatly from this. Otherwise locate rooms that would beneft from the sun (ie. not stores, bathrooms etc) so that they get the sun when you are most likely to be in them: e.g. bedrooms beneft from morning sun so it’s best if they have an east facing external wall. Second living rooms are often used for relaxing quiet time at the end of the day so it’s best if they have a west facing window to allow the rays from afternoon/evening sun and the beautiful light from the setting sun to fow into the room Direct Gain Method of Passive Solar Heating In the sketch below the lean-to accommodates secondary rooms such as bathrooms, stores and porches. When these are located on the north side they act as a buffer and reduce heat loss from the main habitable rooms. At night there is no solar gain so high performance double glazing used in conjunction with shutters and curtains are used to reduce heat loss. Any rooms with large windows in this south facing wall (and also those in the west facing gable wall) will beneft directly from solar gain through the glass and into the room. This happens when the sun is shining. Highly insulated roof, solid walls and foors helps retain heat gained from solar gain Lean-to South side of the house
- Deep Plan House versus Narrow Plan House - Consider the benefts of the traditional narrow form house in terms of light and energy capture Deep Plan HouseNarrow Plan House Indicates potential for sun’s rays to enter the room, creating solar gain and enhancing the quality of natural light. Indicates no potential for the sun’s rays to enter the room. This increases the reliance on supplementary forms of heating and also leaves the rooms feeling dull in relation to the quality of natural light. This can be exacerbated by the possible problem of glare caused by very bright light at the windows facing south The most common plan arrangement for new houses built in the countryside today is the “deep plan” which is usually comprised of four main rooms on the ground and frst foors arranged in a layout that is two rooms deep. While this can work perfectly well in terms of day-to-day functionality this arrangement fails on two scores: ■ The main habitable rooms (and your wallet) cannot beneft fully from the free sun’s energy (ie heat). ■ Its rooms cannot beneft from the wide range and quality of natural light that is available throughout each day and across the year.
- . conservatories Conservatories Conservatories or sunrooms are often built either as extensions to existing houses or as part of new build homes. Often they are built on the wrong side of the house where there is least sun and/or are overshadowed by other buildings or existing trees. When this happens the conservatory is often in shade and is a less attractive room as a result. This is an expensive mistake and one that is easily avoided. Ideally conservatories and sunrooms should be positioned on the south (or as a second choice on the west) side of the house. If they are on the west side they will have one side facing north and it is best if this wall is a highly insulated solid wall rather than glass to avoid heat loss on this side. A B However, it is possible to get orientation right and still end up with a house and conservatory that are incongruous in relation to each other and detract visually from their surrounding countryside. House A illustrates such a house – the house itself is excessively fussy and over complex and the shape of the conservatory bears no relation to the shape of the house… and it faces north! There are other ways to create a conservatory so that the room integrates well into the house and sits happily into the countryside. The simplest way to do this is to allow the conservatory to respect and refect the shape of the main part of the house. It can be a single storey or a two storey space, provided it is designed with skill to blend in with the house and landscape. Versions B and C illustrate two possible approaches, though there are many more. C 6
- Sunny Rooms Another approach to the conservatory add-on to a house is to create one or more sun flled rooms that are part of the house itself and not an add-on. This is often more cost effective than building a separate room since many conservatories (sunny or not) are often little used perhaps because they don’t get much sun (and aren’t very appealing) or because they’re remote from other commonly used rooms such as kitchen/dining and family room. A skilled designer with a good working knowledge of the annual sun path can cleverly ensure that the external walls and windows of the most frequently used rooms are positioned and sized to take advantage of the maximum amount of sun (when it exists) for as much of the year as possible. This means that it becomes unnecessary to build a separate sunroom or conservatory. An example of this approach is illustrated on the right and shows the kitchen/dining/ den space at the house at Goorey Rocks, Malin designed by Mary Kerrigan Frank Harkin, Architects. This open plan space has a south facing façade with an expanse of double height glazing that frames spectacular views over Trawbreaga Bay in Inishowen from both ground and frst foor level but also admits the sun from mid morning until mid afternoon. The external photo shows the same window as it opens out onto a south facing sheltered patio space. It is important to remember that at certain times of the year overheating and glare can be a problem when large areas of south or west facing glazing are created and secondary shading devices such as blinds, shutters or external brise soleils (see the cantilevered timber brise soleil in the photograph) are essential. Photo courtesy of Frank Harkin Photo courtesy of Ken Walsh 7
- appendix - native planting The planting of a new hedgerow should take place between the months of October and March to ensure successful establishment. The new plants should be planted in a double, staggered row at 00mm (0cm) centres to ensure an appropriate thickness of hedging. Suffcient width should be allowed for the established hedge (m). If possible, link the new hedge to an existing hedge to provide an effective wildlife corridor. Where feasible plant the hedge on a metre raised earthen ditch or local rubble stone ditch with a mix of stone and soil. Pruning the plants after planting will aid their establishment, promote growth and ensure a good shape. Plants should be cut back to about half their height after planting. Any failures in the planting mix should be replaced the following planting season by the same species. New growth should be protected from weed competition until it is established. In certain circumstances young hedges may also need to be protected from livestock or even people. Fencing at least m away from the hedge on each side may be necessary until establishment has been reached. ------ ----500mm Recommended species include the following: Species Size Percentage of Overall Mix Crataegus monogyna (hawthorn) 60-0 cm height 0% Fraxinus excelsior (ash) 60-0 cm height 0% Ilex aquifolium (holly) Lt pots 0% 0-60cm height Prunus spinosa (blackthorn) 60-0cm height 0% Note: The above species are typically found in a native hedgerow, other species of plants can also be planted to increase diversity but take care not to mix in too many different species. Other species which can be used include the following: Corylus avellana - hazel Alnus glutinosa - alder Sambucus nigra - elder Lonicera periclymenum - honeysuckle Salix caprea - goat willow Rosa arvensis - wild rose
- appendix - maintenance of water treatment systems Maintenance requirements of on-site wastewater treatment systems If your home is to be serviced by an on-site wastewater treatment system, another important consideration is that of the ongoing and indefnite maintenance requirements of that system. The EPA’s Code of Practice: Treatment Systems for Single Houses (P.E. < 0) contains detailed guidance on maintenance requirements for all types of systems. The EPA document should be consulted by all users, or potential users, of on-site systems. The main points are summarised here: Whilst the site suitability assessment, design, choice of treatment system and construction are all vitally important for the proper operation of a treatment system, the ongoing maintenance of that system after the house is occupied is of equal importance. Conventional septic tank systems require a slightly different approach to that associated with proprietary treatment systems. Due to the lack of mechanical parts, electrical equipment, etc., periodic visual inspection along with regular de-sludging is generally all that is required to ensure that the system operates effectively. Visual inspections should be carried out approximately every 6 months with de-sludging every years. A visual inspection should include inspection of sludge and scum levels, structural soundness and watertightness, baffes and screen and the distribution box. Proprietary treatment systems are generally more complex and contain mechanical and electrical parts. Maintenance requirements are more onerous and for the most part must be carried out by a trained engineer. When seeking specifc guidance for these systems, the user should consult the manufacturer’s instructions and advice. In some cases the manufacturer will offer the user the option of a maintenance contract. Proprietary systems are generally not user serviceable but the following ■ checks may be carried out by the user as part of routine inspection with results being advised to the service engineer: ■ Check alarm system; ■ Visual inspection of external elements of treatment unit; ■ Odour assessment (bad egg odour may indicate unit is not operating correctly); ■ Noise assessment (excessive / unusual noise from unit may indicate unit is not operating correctly); The percolation area / polishing flter generally requires little in the way of maintenance if a proper site characterisation has been carried out and the entire system properly installed. The percolation area / polishing flter should be kept free from vehicles, heavy animals, sports activities or other activities likely to break the sod on the surface. It should however be inspected every 6 months to ensure that no surface damage is visible. The aeration / ventilation pipes should also be inspected. Where ponding is observed at the ground surface or at the base / toe of a raised percolation area it may be necessary to excavate the area to determine the reason for the failure. Any large scale maintenance works of this type should only be carried out by a suitably qualifed WARNING Never enter the confned space of a septic tank for inspection or any other purpose. To do so is extremely dangerous due to toxic gases and / or insuffcient oxygen. To avoid serious injury or electrocution, in the case of proprietary systems, servicing should only be carried out by qualifed service engineers.
- appendix - landscape character areas Kilkenny City Lowland River Valley Transition Zone Upland a moneenree castlecomer ballyragget johnstown freshfordurlingford kilmanagh gowran bennettsbridge callan kells stoneyford thomastown graiguenamangh inistioge ballyhale kilmoganny mullinavat piltown glenmore sileverue mooncoin kilkenny described as follows:c Lowland •■ Predominately fertile lands with high levels of population and intensive agricultural activity •■ Characterised by long range views across large felds with low and highly maintained hedges. Steep slopes to upland areas •■ Low intensity agriculture/stock rearing •■ Old coniferous forestry •■ Some old estate planting (mixed deciduous) •■ Successional vegetation (heath, gorse, scrub woodland) Upland Ridges, Peaks ■ Characterised by poor drainage and high wind/rainfall •■ Limited range of vegetation and land d use-the lack of trees is conspicuous due to the elevation. Upland Enclosures •■ Elevated with poor drainage and high winds, but less exposed (visually) than upland ridges/peaks b County Boundary Source- Landscape Character Assessment produced by CAAS Environmental Services Ltd 00 0 Landscape Character Areas Within Kilkenny there are a range of broad landscape types that can in general terms, be Upland Plateau •■ Elevated, gently undulating lands with sparse vegetation Foothills/Lower Slopes •■ Large felds with low hedges and scattered smaller trees. •■ Mostly used for stock rearing or some mixed tillage •■ Blocks of coniferous forestry •■ Some new deciduous forestry and successional woodland on steep slopes Transition Lowlands •■ Poor drainage, poor fertility and limited landuse potential •■ Small enclosures, dense hedges, wood, many hedgerow trees River Valleys ( general components) - Floodplain slopes- often steep and wooded, - Floodplains levels- mixed uses and – Riverbanks- often wooded
Source Kilkenny County Council: County Kilkenny Rural Design Guide · Licence the publisher's termsText read from the publisher’s PDF; tables, maps and drawings do not survive as text, and page numbers are the PDF’s (its first page is 1). Check the original before relying on a passage.